Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and travelers alike celebrating its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, UNESCO honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a exclusive roster of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it joins a worldwide network of over 400 urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "is a testament to its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and lively culinary scene," according to a official from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 cities internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this venerable city arrives as little surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's largest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has consistently defined its heart: an profound passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a constant conversation from morning until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, evolved, and raised to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of food experimentation, merging Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases fresh harvests but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on many street corners, there are small establishments and stalls – hidden treasures that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in kulhads, along with fluffy buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a no-frills joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and involved. The vendor beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though express concern that their children are unwilling to master the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will encourage more people worldwide to explore these narratives and experience the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
